Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Take the style quiz

Trying to determine exactly what your style is can be hard to organize in your head. Here is a helpful and fun quiz to help you out.


I am vintage modern

Vintage Modern

Flea Market anyone? You know you are drawn to modern furniture and interiors, and yet you really don't like a space that feels cold and sterile. And who could blame you? And that's why Vintage Modern is so appealing to you. Though the backdrop of the room, the walls and windows, are many times white or monochromatic, the furniture and accessories have the color, shape and texture to bring the warmth into the space. The great thing about Vintage Modern is ease of mixing different styles in the one space. You can have a new modular sofa mixed with a great pair of chairs that your grandmother purchased in the late 1950's and the new and old work appear as though they were destined for each other. What's great is that even if you don't have time for swap meets and garage sales, so many of the pieces from the mid-century were so great that they have been remade and mimicked year after year.

Materials

The other great thing about Vintage Modern is how low maintenance it can be — fabrics such as cotton, microfiber or ultra-suede and leather all look great and function even better. So whether you are having a cocktail party with friends, or kids are in the picture, the room and the furnishings can handle it. Because the style harkens back to the early twentieth century, the innovative developed during that time are very popular: acrylic, plastic and fiberglass, chrome and steel, and molded plywood. Concrete floors, countertops and furniture are also very popular and lacquered finishes are very common.

Colors

When it comes to color, walls are seen as backdrops for the room. Neutral tones of gray, white, beige and brown are very common and black is a common accent color. Pops of color on the art, furniture and accessories can vary dramatically based on the person, however very common colors are teal blues, army greens and yellow as well as deep oranges and bright reds.

Share your style results with a friend

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Container Garden Checklist

http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/container-checklist/index.html

Container Checklist

Follow these do's and don'ts in container gardening.

Master gardener Paul James offers tips for creating successful container gardens:

Figure A

Don't forget to cover the drainage hole.

Water should be able to drain freely from the drain hole, which is why James doesn't suggest to cover it with stones or little pieces of broken clay pots. However, as important as it is for water to get out, you also don't want certain critters to get in. Sowbugs, or pillbugs, aren't especially troublesome but can do a number on strawberries and other plants. Earwigs can devastate plants. That's why he prefers to cover the drainage holes of pots with a piece of pantyhose (figure A) or window screen before filling them with potting mix.

Pack the potting mix when filling containers.

Potting mix tends to be fairly light, so if you don't pack it down as you add it to the pot, it will settle the first time you water. This can cause the rootballs of newly planted plants to become exposed and therefore susceptible to drying out.

Figure B

Once you've filled your container about a third of the way full with potting mix, press it firmly with your hands (figure B). Then add another third and firm it again, and so on until ready to plant.

Figure C

Tease the roots.

It's extremely important to loosen or tease the roots of plants (figure C) before sticking them in a pot, especially those that are rootbound. The process may look a bit extreme, but it's actually beneficial.

If you don't tease the roots, they'll just continue to grow in a circle rather than reach out into the surrounding potting mix. When that happens, the plants won't be able to absorb the surrounding water and nutrients, and they'll wilt and lack vigor.

Provide enough headroom.

When filling a container with potting mix, avoid adding the mix all the way up to the rim of the container. Without sufficient headroom at the top of the pot, water will run off rather than soak into the pot. Instead, leave at least an inch of headroom below the rim of the pot (figure D) so thirsty plants will have an opportunity to drink the water.

Water newly potted plants right away--then water again.

The initial watering will likely run out of the drainage hole quickly because of all the pore spaces in the potting mix. However, the mix will settle within a few minutes, at which time it's a good idea to water again slowly, allowing the mix to soak up all the moisture.

Mulch

Container-grown plants benefit from a light layer of mulch. This is especially true for those that are grown in terra-cotta pots, which tend to lose moisture fairly quickly due to the porous nature of the clay.

Figure E

When mulching plants in containers, the trick is to match the mulch to the plant. This hydrangea (figure E) prefers steady moisture and acidic soil, so a one-inch layer of sphagnum moss is ideal. The moss will keep the soil moist between waterings and slowly acidify the soil as well.

Figure F

At the other extreme, the cacti and succulents in this trough (figure F) prefer dry soil and a nearly-neutral, slightly-alkaline soil. In this case, a mulch of pea gravel is perfect because it lets the moisture evaporate and keeps the pH within the ideal range. What's more, the lightly-colored gravel reflects the sun, thereby giving these plants the warm environment in which they thrive.

Similarly, you can use a light layer of sand to mulch cacti and succulents. Sand mulch can also help control the gnats that sometimes seem to pop out of nowhere.

Figure G

Also in the house, decorative, polished stones (figure G) can give containerized houseplants a little something extra. Or you might consider bark mulch made specifically for houseplants.

Figure H

There's always shredded bark mulch (figure H). It works nicely on container plants and enhances their overall look.

Figure I

For plants that are prone to slug attack, consider crushed pecan shells (figure I) because slugs don't like to move across their jagged edges. For something a bit more exotic, try crushed cocoa shells. They also deter slugs and look great. What's more, they smell just like chocolate.

Figure J

Yet another great mulch worthy of consideration is moss. Whether it's sphagnum, Spanish (figure J), or sheet moss, these mosses are all available for purchase in bags.

Figure K

And finally, try this new mulching material--a bag full of terra-cotta balls. Placed around the base of a container plant, especially one in which the base of the plant is highly visible, these balls add a unique decorative touch to a container (figure K).

The Modern Container Garden


INA10319063, originally uploaded by crisdiaz.


By Domani, originally uploaded by The Outdoor Stylist .com.

Fruit in Containers


http://www.hgtv.com/landscaping/growing-fruit-in-containers/index.html

Growing Fruit in Containers

Extend your garden's harvest by growing citrus, blueberries and more fruiting plants in pots.

If you crave fresh, homegrown fruit picked ripe from the plant, consider growing fruit in containers at home. Even if your garden is already crammed full of plants or your yard consists of a tiny patio with limited space, there are a variety of fruiting shrubs and trees that will produce a bountiful harvest when grown in pots.

Fruit gardener Ed Laivo grows many varieties in containers, including citrus, figs, avocados, jujubes, pomegranates, pawpaws and even cherries.

Blueberries are among his favorites for containers. Blueberry plants are notoriously fussy about the pH level in soil. In pots, however, a high-acid potting soil takes care of that. "Blueberries are the easiest fruit to grow in containers," he says.

One group of fruit trees, however, doesn't make great container plants. "Peaches, plums, nectarines and other stone fruit are so vigorous that generally the roots will outgrow the container in a short period of time and, in some cases, even before the tree is able to produce fruit."

Planting fruit trees in containers

To grow healthy container trees for years to come, it's important to start with good soil. Laivo recommends using a mixture of three parts potting soil to one part perlite and one part 1/4-inch pine bark. The perlite helps to oxygenate the soil, while the bark adds organic matter to help the soil mixture break down more readily.

When the soil mixture is ready, Laivo adds just enough of the mix to the bottom of a plastic container so that the tree's root ball will sit about three inches from the rim of the pot. Laivo uses plastic pots because they're durable and easy to move. He firmly presses the soil down in the pot to remove any air pockets. Then he places the fruit tree into the pot and adds more soil mix around the sides and top of the root ball, firmly pressing it in place. When the fruit tree is planted in its new pot, Laivo recommends adding a layer of mulch as a top dressing. This will help to conserve moisture, keep weeds down and add some nutrients to the soil. Keep plants watered and don't allow them to dry out completely.

Painting the bark

Laivo paints the bark from soil level up to where the major scaffolding limbs begin, using white interior latex paint diluted 50 percent with water. Painting the tree's trunk protects the bark from nature's elements. It also makes it easier to see if there is insect damage.

Pruning — the roots as well as the top

Root pruning helps to maintain smaller sized, healthier plants by keeping the roots from becoming pot bound. Pruning the roots also stimulates root growth. Laivo recommends removing about one third of the roots from the root ball; he uses a square point shovel to cut the roots. This process is best done in early spring when the plants are getting ready to put forth a lot of new growth.

Laivo also keeps his fruit trees pruned to about eight feet tall. This helps to keep the trees at a manageable size for easy harvest. "Pruning helps to keep plants under control. Plants absolutely adapt if you make them adapt. It's not a question of whether or not the plant is going to grow too big; it's a question of whether or not you're going to let the plant grow too big," he says.

Final note

If there is a downside to growing fruit in pots, it's that containerized trees won't produce as much fruit as a tree planted in the ground. The upside? They often bear fruit a year or two earlier.

Enjoy it while it lasts. "In a container, the oldest one I've probably worked with is about 10 years old. After 10 years, the trees get pretty mangled from all the aggressive root pruning. So after 10 years, you should look at replacing the trees," says Laivo. Either transplant the tree into the ground or throw it away and start fresh with a new plant.

Resources

    • Ed Laivo
      Gardener
  • Container Garden


    Container Garden, originally uploaded by peterlfrench.

    Container Gardens

    Gardening with containers is a way to keep the outside
    just as organized as the inside of your home.
    The upkeep is minimum and containers allow you to change up the landscape often.
    You can even transfer the containers inside your home to bring an outdoor oasis indoors.
    Here are some tips from HGTV.com


    Gardens can be quite interesting if they're designed in a series of discreet spaces made to feel like a little collection of rooms. An easy way to create these garden rooms is by using pots. Container gardener Steve Silk offers tips on how to design and arrange containers to add beauty to the landscape:

  • Use pots to define garden spaces. Cluster small- to large-sized containers to enclose a garden space or frame a view. Create "hallways" through a space by placing pots with different shapes and sizes to provide a sense of enclosure; place pots on risers to make plants look taller.

  • When creating any kind of garden space, whether it's a room or a hallway, start with a corner. "As long as you have strong corners, it feels much more like a room," says Steve. "Then you can easily connect the dots between the corners and enclose your room."

  • Add architectural interest with variety in your potted collections. Mix it up with a variety of sculptural plants with strong shapes to draw attention. For example, elephant ear, which is a tropical, has much different needs than agave, which is a succulent. By planting them in individual containers, each plant gets the ideal soil, fertilizer and watering regimen to suit its needs, and you can play around with the various textures, shapes and colors of these plants.

  • Take advantage of containers as a forgiving (and movable) form of garden design. If you don't like the way the pots look together, simply move one out and another one in until you get something you like.

  • Use containers as a means of traffic control. If you want to get people to slow down, group as many pots together as possible to form a nice, tight passageway. This naturally causes garden visitors to slow down as they make their way through the space.

  • Place fragrant plants near walkways for a sensory-enhanced stroll.It's almost impossible to walk right through a space without detecting the fragrance of pineapple sage, scented geraniums, rosemary, lavender and other herbs.

  • Use pots to signal change in the landscape. Planters can handily mark transition areas in the garden — the beginning of a flight of stairs, a path or an entry to a new garden space.

  • Combine containers with annuals, perennials and other plants in complementary colors. Enhance the look of a colorful pot with matching or contrasting seasonal flowers and foliage.

  • Even empty pots can be useful in the garden. "Find a pot with a nice sculptural form or beautiful color, and it becomes an art object all on its own," says Steve. Place an interesting pot as a focal point or to anchor a seating area.
  • Friday, August 13, 2010

    House sweep


    The next time you have 15 mins grab a basket
    go through each room of the house
    pick up the items that need to be moved to their home.
    When the basket is full,
    put the individual items back to their designated "home"
    and continue the routine.


    Monday, August 2, 2010

    Dresser Makeover DIY

    Dresser Makeover

    How to remodel a hand-me-down dresser into exactly what you want.



    You Will Need



    • Completed Project: Dresser Makeover Picture #1
    Description

    I am in the process of re--decorating the house on a serious budget. This dresser was given to me as a hand-me-down and I really wanted to transform it into a clean, modern, white dresser that I would love. I'm really proud of how it turned out so I hope this is helpful!


    1. Step 1

      Step 1

      Say goodbye to a hideous dresser


    2. Step 2

      Step 2

      Move dresser to a work area which you won't mind getting messy. Take out the drawers.


    3. Step 3

      Step 3

      With a handy sander, you must sand down every inch of the dresser to its bare wood.(Don't worry. This doesn't take that long) Wear a dust mask.


    4. Step 4

      Step 4

      The wood will look like this when you are through.


    5. Step 5

      Step 5

      Un-screw the handles from the drawers.


    6. Step 6

      Step 6

      Paint the drawers. Allow 2 hours in between each coat. I used 2 coats of primer and 3 coats of white paint. This is the time consuming part but if you enjoy painting, you wont have an issue.


    7. Step 7

      Step 7

      Paint the frame of the dresser.


    8. Step 8

      Step 8

      While you are waiting for the white paint to dry, start working on the handles. I hated the bronze color of the handles and didn't want to replace them all together. So I decided to spray paint them instead. Krylon is a favorite of mine and this metal color worked perfect. I also used a block of Styrofoam to hold the handles while I sprayed.


    9. Step 9

      Step 9

      With the screws in the back of the handle, press into the Styrofoam.


    10. Step 10

      Step 10

      Spray. Allow paint to dry for 10 minutes. Spray a second coat.


    11. Step 11

      Step 11

      Replace the drawers into the dresser.


    12. Step 12

      Step 12

      Screw the handles back into the dresser.


    13. Step 13

      Step 13

      Enjoy your new dresser!


    Chelsea M.'s projects